Sea lochs and spawning fish .
Ian Douglas described how he and customers watched the ‘15m+’ Fin whale 'spouting' from the Melvaig Inn on 16/10. Although ~2km offshore, it could be seen with a naked eye, not so far from where I was paddling contentedly in search of mackerel. For Ian: possibly Scotland’s largest land-based wild animal sighting of the year, and almost certainly the largest pub-based sighting; for me, somewhat overwhelmingly the largest . . . non-sighting of the year! (I'd have been somewhat surprised had it surfaced and 'spouted' alongside me in my kayak . . .) Why was it there? Follow the 'Facebook' link on the Hebridean Whale Cruises website for some pictures of it.
On 23/10 I arrived on Arran to attend the Community of Arran Seabed Trust's symposium on extending stakeholder engagement in marine conservation (see www.arrancoast.com ). Over a third of the population of Arran has joined COAST. By teaming up with leading scientists, lawyers and by running a successful PR campaign (they are on TV again tonight . . .), COAST established the first 'no-take zone’ in Scotland in 2008. The area of seabed that is protected in Lamlash Bay between Holy Island and the 'mainland' of Arran is small and hardly significant relative to the scale of restoration challenges even in the Firth of Clyde. However, the need to designate marine protected areas [MPAs] and ‘notake zones’ around the world is gradually becoming more widely accepted, and even here in Scotland, following the passage of the Marine Bill earlier in the year, MPAs are on the Government agenda. The meeting was attended by both the local MP and MSP, and representatives from Marine Scotland and SNH. Results from existing marine protected areas demonstrate how both shellfish (e.g. lobster, crayfish and scallop) and fin fish species can recover when designated areas are managed to protect vital spawning and nursery habitats, and the places where important adult fish over-winter. Loch Gairloch is already a 'marine protected area' in so far as it is one of a few sea lochs where trawlers and dredgers have been excluded for over 20 years to protect habitats for spawning herring. Do herring still spawn in the loch? During the summer, members of WREN and SNH commissioned underwater surveys of coastal habitats and wildlife from Loch Gairloch to the Ullapool area, and made several exciting discoveries. On 15th December a meeting will take place in Gairloch High School where some of the underwater ROV footage including pictures of marine habitats in the loch taken during the summer will be shown. Maybe we’ll also learn more from fishermen and wildlife enthusiasts about the fishes and other marine animals that once lived / still live around our coastline; and see whether there is sufficient interest from old and young for doing more to protect and restore our fish habitats and local fisheries..
On 28/10 we met at the Flowerdale car park opposite the Old Inn for a walk into the hills. A dipper was searching for food at the tail of the pool above the bridge where two of Alastair's ducks were having a fine time. Robins were singing from the bushes and undergrowth. A wee brown female tufted duck dived in the pond by the path, unconcerned by our presence. We followed the path by the burn upstream to the stables and beyond. I looked for trout under the bridges, but the water was just too high and turbid to see any. A heron took off, bullfinches called. We followed the trail marker posts up the hill to the loch. In the burns on the far side were wee trout, splashing through the riffles. October and November are the best months to see trout and salmon, as they move into shallow water to spawn. Approach quietly; try not to disturb. Some otters move inland in search of spawning fish: easy meals. We followed an otter run through the valley to the next loch, and on to the next loch where we crept to within 10m of the burn mouth and watched several larger trout with backs half out of water jostling in the shallows. On a patch of green grass on the bank nearby, we found a fresh otter spraint with several orange-yellow eggs in it; trout and salmon eggs can pass through an otter without being digested! The day was calm, and quite warm. However, we didn't see a single live bird on the higher ground (we found the skull and feathers of what had either been a young heron or a diver). Quadbike tracks led us through the more recently planted ground; some of the pine trees have grown by 10 inches per year, others are just about surviving. Back down in the valley the sun came out turning the mature beech woodlands to bright shades of yellow, orange and gold.
Sunday 14th November
Headwater streams and autumn shores
Loch Clair was mirror calm as we walked along the lochside (14/11). Granny pines and the snow-covered crags of Liathach were perfectly reflected in the water. The mature Scots pinewoods are some of the finest. Coulin Estate has done more than any other in the area to remove and control invasive non-native Rhododendron ponticum, thereby also allowing an understory of native heather, blaeberry and other useful shrubs and trees to grow: protecting a diversity of habitats and feeding places for other wildlife.
We were watched by two young stags as we followed the cycle-sign posted track into the plantation. Bullfinches called from trackside broadleaved trees; a woodcock took flight from the leaf litter below. Whilst having ‘elevenses’, we watched coal tits, goldcrests and chaffinches search for food amongst the pine needles in branches above a tumbling burn. In another burn, a small trout made a bow-wave as it fled from a patch of cleaner gravel in the tail of a pool.
The sun shone. As we had our lunch, there were also small trout rising in the loch. On our way back, six mallard took flight. A male Great-spotted woodpecker landed on a birch tree, blended, then flew on. Buzzards drifted by. Far away, on the far side of the river, a female salmon created splash as she excavated her redd in the pebbly gravel.
- - -
East and southeasterly winds prevailed over the following week. Bramblings were seen in a garden near Kinlochewe. The winds were strong at times, but not cold. As the ground dried out, river levels dropped to summer levels. We returned to some of the spawning burns at the end of the week and found fresh trout (& sea trout?) redds; the fish were gone. Salmon had also moved away from their main spawning places and were unsettled in the deeper water, awaiting rain. We watched female charr trying to excavate egg-spaces in a cobbly streambed with hardly any useful gravel. Red-bellied males with prominent white-rimmed fins jousted nearby. As dusk fell, a barn owl flew across the road at Grudie.
- - -
The tide was already far out as we walked across the shore to the edge of the sea using wave-scrubbed boulders as stepping stones (21/11). Pink encrusting calcareous algae has cemented much of the shorebed; however, some of the stones can be lifted to see what lives beneath. The small crabs and little fish have moved away from their summer places into deeper water or beneath larger boulders. Other animals cling on: limpets, mussels, small winkles, whelks and top shells. Around the base of Lobster rock near the low water mark are mats of yellow breadcrumb sponge.
The sea was calm. Two oystercatchers, a redshank and several ringed plover also searched for small animals. A curlew called. Only a week earlier there were still young gannets, very dark in colour, diving into the sea not far out. A flock of 30+ eider remains, drakes cooing and squabbling; will they stay for the winter? Nearby are shags and a few divers; Great-northerns I think.
We headed back up to the strand line. Pipits cheeped from perches on the pile of rotting seaweeds. As we turned to walk back, a Merlin took off from Lobster rock, flew fast and low over the beach and landed on another boulder. A snipe jumped up from near our feet, protesting as it zig-zagged away. Just beyond the slipway an otter surfaced, then duck-dived below again. I should watch a little longer next time, and see what it finds; or, when the sun is shining, snorkel, and have a look for myself.
December 2010
A haul of herrings; shore thrushes and wintering waders.
In late November, herrings were caught in Loch Ewe. Much excitement! Memories and tastebuds were rekindled: some of the fish were in spawning condition; salted roes (the eggs inside the fishes) are a traditional local delicacy; herrings in oatmeal, food as good as it gets.
In the past there were many herrings. At a recent Inshore Fisheries Group meeting, local boats requested a share of the 'West of Scotland herring' quota. From the same meeting report, another comment: 'What's the point of protecting something that’s 60m down that you can't see?' Perhaps the boys and girls in local primary schools could learn all about our local herrings, their potential value and vulnerability (ecology, economy, cultural history, and health) and how we can all help to look after them so that one day they too may be able to catch Loch Ewe herrings . . .
- - -
At the end of the month, easterly winds brought heavy snow showers and sustained subzero temperatures. River levels stayed low. Dippers dabbled in the shallows where salmon may spawn; Goldeneye, Red-breasted merganser and a ?Dabchick were seen fishing the deeper pools of the Ewe.
I met Barry in the middle of the road inspecting bird tracks in the fresh snow (28/11). 'Some sort of rail' he suggested [I wondered whether one of Anne's hens had hopped over the hedge!]. A few days later, the Water Rail was reported from a garden nearby. With snow deep across much of eastern Scotland and ditches frozen over, other unusual hungry birds may turn up in Gairloch gardens. Along the northshore road there were also rabbit tracks as far as Fasaig; and weasel and fox tracks by the campsite at Sand. In bright sunshine I peddled on up the North Erradale hill. When I reached the top, two Snow buntings flew overhead chirping.
The cold weather has persisted into December. On Friday morning (3/12) there was a brief thaw: +4oC at Gairloch, +3oC at Kinlochewe, but just over the hill at Achnasheen, still -6oC. Down by the fence along the Loch a' Chroisg road, Red deer and Sika deer were scraping snow in search of food. One night a stag found my vegetable patch and fed well on leaks, kale and broccoli (it overlooked my cabbages, which are now fenced in).
At Melvaig, flocks of starlings arrive at 'sunrise' [just after the snowy hills of Skye shine pink]. Do they come from roosts at Strath? They jabber away on the electricity wires and then set off at speed to people's gardens where food has been put out. Greedy starlings. We had plenty of sunshine between the showers. Sparrows, chaffinches, blue and great tits, and blackbirds also seem pretty much dependent upon the generosity of humankind. But not all birds rely on us to feed them . . .
A redshank called in alarm as I appeared on the shore; bobbing, bright red legs and beak. Curlews were also unsettled, and 'whauped' as they took flight. With the tide already far out, seven Golden plover and two Turnstones were less conspicuous amongst boulders. Wonderful birds.
Further along the beach I sat down on a sea-sculpted sandstone boulder to observe. Behind me, rock pipits cheeped as they contested perching rights on nearby ledges. With binoculars I explored the shore. A Grey seal with snout pointing skywards drifted just beyond the breakers. I watched a shag surface with a small fish. There were also divers further out. Then I found what I was looking for.
The thrush was hopping from stone to stone amongst the seaweed. A prosperous thrush; fluffed out golden breast with smart black speckled markings; feathers also slightly raised at the back of his head: a crofter wearing a traditional tweed cap. He picked up something, then disappeared behind a boulder. For several minutes I watched.
To my right I heard a feint 'tap tap tap'. I looked round but saw nothing. 'Tap tap': one of these curious sounds, not easy to pinpoint. So I walked towards it; still nothing, just seashore sounds. Then a head appeared above a stone near the base of a larger block of sandstone and we looked at each other. The thrush hopped up onto another rounded stone and flew away to the top of the shore.
The jigsaw pieces were all gathered together. I picked them up and put them in my pocket. Now they are on the table beside me: I can reassemble 3 Common periwinkle shells, and have one leftover top. The thrush must have eaten all four winkles since the tide went out this morning because the broken shells would have been swept away by the waves had they been lying there overnight. Are there any winkling thrushes near you?
The sands reflected the bright winter skies, blemished only by worm casts and Oystercatcher tracks. Later in the day, at the other end of the beach the pipits had gathered: perhaps there was just enough warmth in the sunshine for a few flies to hatch from the composting kelp. Snipe flew off from the wet green places at the base of the slope; and several plump woodcock were put to flight from the grassy passages between the better crofts where earthworm populations are still healthy.
Forthcoming Gairloch Wildlife Group activities (all weather dependent – please phone if in doubt):
Sun 12th December: Flowerdale walk and nest box clean and repair. Several years ago 12 tit boxes, 2 kestrel boxes and an owl box were but up in the Flowerdale woods. How many of them have been used? What winter birds can we find in Flowerdale? Meet at the Flowerdale Car park opposite the Old Inn at 10 am (note change in time): bring warm clothes and gloves and plenty of snacks. If you've got a ladder and would like to assist, please phone.
[Wed 15th December, 7pm: Loch Gairloch: marine protected area? Gairloch High School, 7pm. Please see other notice.]
Thursday 30th December: 10am. Walk along the north shore road from Fasaig to Big Sand and back. Meet at the lay-bye by the Fasaig cattlegrid: bring something good to eat and drink and share.